Dear customers, friends, colleagues,

Here is our 66th  newsletter of March 2018. The entire EXPERTOX team wishes you a good reading.


  • Study on the behavior and degradation of DHA

Dehydroacetic acid (DHA) and its salt (sodium dehydroacetate) are used as preservatives because of their antibacterial and antifungal activities. DHA is widely used in « organic cosmetics » and Annex V of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 limits its use to 0.6% in finished products and banned in aerosols. Organic cosmetics tries to limit or exclude the use of substances that can have a significant toxicological profil regarding specific expositions of the end user, or the environment. However, the behavior and degradation of DHA are poorly studied in the literature.

The EXPERTOX laboratory in collaboration with the Molecular Chemistry Laboratory of the Ecole Polytechnique recently published a study on the behavior of DHA under UV / Vis irradiation [1]. This study is focus on the structural elucidation of by-products from the direct UV-visible irradiation of DHA. Potential toxicities of transformation products were estimated. Finally, the targeted analysis of the characterized photoproducts was carried out in an O/W emulsion.


[1] Ségolène De Vaugelade, Edith Nicol, Svetlana Vujovic, Sophie Bourcier, Stéphane Pirnay, Stéphane Bouchonnet. UV-visible phototransformation of dehydroacetic acid – Structural characterization of photoproducts and global ecotoxicity. Rapid Communication in Mass Spectrometry, 2018. https://doi.org/10.1002/rcm.8104


  • Preservatives

A preservative is a natural or synthetic substance incorporated into cosmetics in order to avoid chemistry (oxidation) or microbiologically alterations. It prevents the microorganism proliferation such as fungi that may, in contact with the skin, create skin allergies. These preservatives are essential for any cosmetic product, natural or not. For natural cosmetics, the authorized and used synthetic preservatives are those exist in nature and / or have low toxicity. The main allowed preservatives are: benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid and its salts, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts. Different instrumental techniques have been used to analyze these molecules: liquid chromatography with UV/Vis detector (LC/UV-Vis) gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GS/MS). A method for separation and quantification of 5 preservatives was today developed by EXPERTOX


Sources :

-Bahruddin Saad et al.; Simultaneous determination of preservatives (benzoic acid, sorbic acid, methylparaben and propylparaben) in foodstuffs using high-performance liquid chromatography; Journal of Chromatography A; Volume 1073, issues 1-2; 6 may 2005; Pages 393-397

-E.Mikami, T. Goto, T. Ohno, H. Matsumoto, M. Nishida ; Simultaneous analysis of dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salicylic acid in cosmetic products by solid-phase extraction and high-performance liquid chromatography; Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis; 28 (2002) 261-267

-Referentiel ECOCERT, Mai 2012 v2


  • Retrospective study in 2017 regarding nanomaterials

DGCCRF (National French authority) presented at last Cosmetics working group at the European Commission, in Bruxels, the retrospective study in 2017 regarding nanomaterials inspections in Cosmetics on the French Market. Many errors or mistakes were found from the inspected products on the French market. False negative? False positive? Wrong composition, wrong labelling on the packaging… cases are numerous. All EXPERTOX teams are available to help you to take care of your situation in terms of technical presence (identification, dosage of nanomaterials), of your products or raw materials, and also regarding their safety evaluation.



From March 1st 2018 to March 31st 2018, EXPERTOX laboratory gives you a 5% discount allergene (Discount Code: LABAPR2018 to be entered on the order form).

From April 1st 2018 to April 30th 2018, EXPERTOX agency gives you a 5% discount on the  safety assessment (Discount Code: CABMAR2018  to be entered on the order form).


Do not hesitate to visit our website and our LinkedIn page where you will find our latest news (articles, presence on different TV programs and more).


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