Restriction on undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA), its salts, and PFHxA-related substances: Cosmetics affected as of October 10, 2026.
On September 19, 2024, the Commission adopted the restriction on undecafluorohexanoic acid
(PFHxA), its salts, and PFHxA-related substances, specifying that these substances:
“Shall not, from October 10, 2026, be placed on the market, or used, in a concentration equal to or greater than 25 ppb for the sum of PFHxA and its salts, or 1,000 ppb for the sum of PFHxA-related substances, measured in homogeneous material, in the following:
(a) textiles, leather, furs, and hides in clothing and related accessories for the general public;
(b) footwear for the general public;
(c) paper and cardboard used as food contact materials within the
scope of Regulation (EC) No 1935/2004;
(d) mixtures for the general public; (e) cosmetic products as defined in Article 2(1), point (a), of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.”
[Source : COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2024/2462 of 19 September 2024].
Chemical hair straightening: National academy of medicine statement on glyoxylic acid
Chemical hair straightening, particularly the so-called “Brazilian” procedure, uses agents like glyoxylic acid to achieve smooth and shiny hair. However, recent studies have revealed cases of acute kidney failure in patients who underwent this treatment, due to the formation of calcium oxalate crystals in the kidneys. These crystals form after glyoxylic acid is absorbed through the skin, especially when scalp damage is present. The National Academy of Medicine recommends increased caution, particularly avoiding these procedures in cases of damaged skin, and emphasizes the need to inform users of potential risks. A follow-up through cosmetovigilance is also encouraged to better assess the scope of associated dangers.
[Référence : Académie nationale de médecine, Lissage chimique des cheveux et risques pour la santé, 06/06/2024].
Compl’Alim: New platform for dietary supplement declarations
Starting from September 23, Compl’Alim will replace Téléicare for the declaration of dietary supplements. From that date, all new declarations must be submitted through this new platform. Téléicare administrators will receive an email with instructions on how to create their account on Compl’Alim. Ongoing cases in Téléicare will be processed until its closure on January 1, 2025, but unreviewed declarations cannot be transferred. Compl’Alim will also offer a search engine for ingredient status and public access to authorized products.
[Source : Ministère de l’agriculture et de la souveraineté alimentaire Vers une circulation de compléments alimentaires sûrs et conformes 10/09/2024].
The rise of bio-sourced packaging as an alternative to plastic
At a time when packaging is more than ever at the heart of environmental issues, alternatives to petro-based packaging are being sought through bio-based packaging
Biosourced packaging is wholly or partially derived from biomass, derived from agricultural, forestry or marine resources. For example, it may be a bioplastic-based packaging rather than a traditional plastic. There are many innovations in this field, including packaging made from algae, mushrooms, sugar cane, flax, etc.
More generally, bio-sourced materials are used in many fields, including construction, food and cosmetics. According to a study carried out by IFOP, these materials had already won over 88% of French people by 2018.
It’s also essential to differentiate between the notions of biobased and biodegradable packaging. Packaging is said to be biosourced according to the raw materials used, while the term biodegradable refers to its ability to decompose naturally through the action of micro-organisms. Thus, a biosourced plastic is not necessarily biodegradable, and vice versa.
The EXPERTOX laboratory can help you bring your biosourced cosmetics and food packaging to market, with services such as content-container interaction.